Saturday, 7 October 2023

 Man proposes, Kamakhya Devi disposes.

Today was the last day the voyagers would be together. And the schedule for the day was to visit the temple and have darshan of Kamakhya Devi. The Shri Shakti Peeth Kamakhya Tirtha Kshetra in Guwahati, Assam is located in the Nilachal Hills of northeastern India. Devotees worship Devi Kamakhya with great devotion as a symbol of powerful feminine energy and as the ultimate source of desires and their fulfilment. This renowned Hindu temple is considered a place of meditation especially for ascetics sages and tantriks who visit this temple to seek blessings from the Goddess of tantra. It is believed that those who worship in this sacred pilgrimage site have their desires fulfilled in all aspects of life.

We all had different flights to take from the Guwahati airport but the majority of us were booked in the Guwahati Bengaluru Air Vistara flight at 2:25 PM. It was about an hour’s drive from the hotel to the airport. So, we need to leave the hotel by 11:00 AM to reach the airport by 12:00 PM, a comfortable 2 hours before the take-off. Accordingly, a few voyagers decided to drop visiting the temple.

To ensure that the above plan is executed properly, our initial idea was to get up at 4:00 AM, go to the temple have a quick darshan, return to the hotel by 9:00 AM, have breakfast, say good bye to our friends & leave for the airport.

But some alternative arrangement was made and our visit to the temple was re scheduled. The rescheduled program was - assemble at the lobby by 6:15 AM, reach the temple by 7:00 AM, collect the special entry tickets, have darshan & return to the hotel by 9:30 AM, have breakfast & leave for the airport.

The first part was executed perfectly. But after getting the special entry tickets in our hands Kamakhya Devi decided to play Her Leela, Her divine play, Her cosmic drama. There was a loooong waiting period. Initially in the halls - sitting, then in the queues – standing. As per our rescheduled plan we were to reach our hotels after darshan by 9:30 AM, but at 10:00 AM we were still in the queues waiting for darshan. Voyagers started losing their patience. Finally, we were able to have darshan by 10:15 AM. After a quick round of fotos, we rushed to our bus to return to the hotel.

But now the next part began. We faced heavy traffic on the roads, making many more of us lose our patience. We finally reached the hotel by 11:30 AM. Rutuja had called and informed the hotel staff to keep the breakfast ready so that we can have it & check out immediately.

The breakfast that was immediately available was sufficient for just half the voyagers. Plus, a majority of us had to pack our luggages, check out of the hotel rooms and ensure that our luggage is loaded into the buses properly. In this confusion a few of us probably ignored the breakfast table as reaching the airport in time to catch the flight was more important.

In the meantime, Rutu had arranged for sandwiches to be packed, which we stuffed into our bags and the drive to the airport finally began.

The next part – more traffic on the roads, the first 25 minutes we had to navigate through narrow roads to reach the high way after which the driver can press the accelerator. Between Sitaram & Rutuja they coordinated with the 50 plus team at Bengaluru who called the Vistara office at Guwahati airport & requested the airport manager to allow the voyagers to check in late.

On reaching the airport we were relieved to see a smartly dressed airport staff actually waiting for us. He ensured that all of us checked in our luggage comfortably. After the mandatory security, we reached the gate and boarded the aircraft safely and in time. I am sure along with me, my fellow voyagers in the Bengaluru flight, sent their silent prayers to the Mother Goddess. Within half an hour of our taking off, SHE ensured that her devotees got piping hot delicious food, courtesy Air Vistara.

After landing at Bengaluru, Geetha & myself had to rush to the terminal where our connecting flight to Mumbai was scheduled for 6:25 PM. By 8:30 PM we landed safely at Mumbai’s Terminal 2, where our driver was waiting to take us back home.

The way this trip started - in a leisurely manner with a long wait at the Guwahati airport & the way it ended – with us having to rush to the airport to get our flight – along with all the beautiful moments in between – will remain in my memory for a long long time…..

About the author.

Friday, 6 October 2023

 Friday, 6 October 2023

It was now time to bid adieu to Meghalaya & travel to Assam. A sure sign that our Meghalaya vacation was coming to an end. Today we will be checking out from Hotel Centre Point at Shillong (Meghalaya) & would be driving to Guwahati (Assam). But as per the travel itinerary designed by the 50+ organizers we had one more tourist spot to visit in Meghalaya. Umiam Lake.

When we had booked the Meghalaya tour Geetha & myself quickly looked up the places in the travel itinerary we were to visit. So, I was looking forward to visiting Umiam Lake. I remember reading a few days back that “Meghalaya has adopted Artificial Intelligence enabled robotic technology to keep it's beautiful tourist hotspot Umiam lake clean, as the lake at an altitude of about 4,900 feet is also a major hub for water sports and boating in hill town Shillong.”

After a quick breakfast, we checked out of the Shillong hotel and after about an hour’s drive we reached Lake Umiam. But to our disappointment boating and other water sports activity was not allowed at that time as the lake was full and almost overflowing. So, our activity was limited to admiring the beauty from the shore & clicking selfies & fotos.

The authorities had constructed a canopy walk way along the shore of the lake. The voyagers had a nice time walking along this way. But this was a short one & the walk lasted less than 5 minutes. This was an elevated path constructed with wooden planks with railing on both the sides. It was an enjoyable experience using this walk way.

Having nothing else to do here, we boarded the bus on our journey towards Guwahati. After a short Tea break at Hotel Jeeva we continued our road travel & reached Hotel Gateway Grandeur at Guwahati by 1:30 PM. After check in the voyagers had a filling lunch at the inhouse restaurant (Florentine). Rutuja wanted us to relax for some time before leaving for the river cruise at Brahmaputra.

We had been reading about floods caused due to overflowing of the Brahmaputra River almost every year. Even about a couple of days back, when we were at Cherrapunji news arrived that Brahmaputra was overflowing & several villages were damaged. Having seen the Umiam lake overflowing a couple of hours back I was not very hopeful about the Brahmaputra cruise materializing.

By 4:00 PM we got into the bus for the river cruise. On arriving at the river front the Brahmaputra River looked calm & serene. The cruise, it seemed, would materialize after all! Rutu purchased the tickets & all of us boarded the vessel.

Cozy seating arrangements were available. In sets of 6, the voyagers picked their chairs & waited for the vessel to start. The vessel had a capacity of around 50 passengers, out of which the voyagers numbering 21/22 formed the single largest group inside the vessel. There were a few young couple, a couple with 2 school going children and a couple of families with family members aged 3 to 60.

At around 5:00 PM the vessel started sailing, and the attendants, placed light snacks on all the tables. Option of tea / coffee / soft drinks was available. The snacks & beverages I believe were part of the ticket cost. For those interested, alcoholic beverages were available for a separate cost.

As the passengers were enjoying their snacks & tea, the in-house musician started singing the omnipresent bolly wood hindi film songs. He started with a slow number & as the pace picked up the voyagers entered the dancing stage & started enjoying themselves. Rutuja ensured that not a single person was left out & each and every one participated in the dance.

The other passengers were wonderstruck seeing senior citizens dance spiritedly. Depending on the nature of songs one could see disco, samba, tango, hiphop, Zumba and what not on the dancing floor.  Not to be left out of all the fun, the youngsters, the couples, the family, practically every one in the vessel except a couple of very senior citizens joined the dance session. Gradually the karaoke music was replaced with DJ music. The DJ gradually increasing the tempo of the music. When the positive energy level and the good vibes was at its highest, when the music was at its crescendo the DJ ended his show & ensured that his guests left the ship in high spirits & a very joyous mood.

By the time we de boarded from the vessel it was 6:15 PM. A few voyagers opted for shopping. The rest returned to the hotel. After freshening up we reached the dining room by 8:00 PM. It was not a surprise to find that long after the dinner got over the voyagers were unwilling to go to their respective rooms to retire for the day. Everyone was aware that this was probably the last opportunity to have a relaxed chat with their new 50+ friends.  The next day morning would see most of us visiting the Kamakhya temple where the atmosphere would be totally different.

Back in the room I spent some time with my e reader and went to bed by 11:45 PM.

Click here to continue

Thursday, 5 October 2023

 

Thursday morning yet again saw most of us getting up to an alarm set at 6:00 AM. It was time to bid adieu to Cherrapunjee & return to Shillong. That meant a long drive and that too with a couple of sight-seeing scheduled enroute.

Mac had indicated a tentative time of 8:30 AM to board the bus and start our drive back to Shillong. After a comfortable bath & sumptuous breakfast the voyagers assembled for a group foto with the home stay in the background.

The drivers of the 2 vehicles promptly requested for a group foto of the voyagers along with the home stay staff - with the home stay resort & the 2 buses in the background.

 

 

We boarded the buses and managed to start our drive by 8:45 AM. The climate was pleasant. It started drizzling making the climate slightly colder. 

Our first halt was the Elephant waterfalls. This was situated at a distance of around 55 kms from the cherrapunjee resort where we stayed for the past 2 nights & it took us around two and half hours to reach this place. By now it had started raining moderately & the voyagers had to pull out their umbrellas and/or rain jackets. This seemed to be a popular water fall. It consisted of 3 layers of water falls and was accessible from different viewpoints. The first fall is wide and is hidden behind trees. The second one seemed to have some turbulence & the third one is very wide and clearly visible, flows like a milky sheet. However, to reach the third stage one had to climb down around a hundred stairs, which was worth it. Probably because it was raining when we visited, the falls looked filled with water unlike the seven sister’s waterfall. Also, the stairs were uneven & in some places slippery.

 

 

 

At this point, one of the voyagers, Beena, had to curtail her trip & had to return to Mumbai due to an emergency in her immediate family. Luckily, her travel agent could arrange the tickets immediately.

 

Our next halt was at the Don Bosco Museum. This was not just a museum but was a place where I could see and experience the lifestyle, occupation, attire and a whole lot of other aspects about the local tribal society. The museum itself was an imposing 7 storey structure which has a must-see sky walk which gives one a 360-degree view of the Shillong city.

 

The museum had several galleries in the 7 storeys such as musical instrument gallery, culture gallery, language museum, ornaments gallery, art gallery, culture gallery, costume gallery, weapons gallery, fishing / hunting gallery & several other galleries which I could not remember now. 

 

  

 

Most galleries have a touch screen facility where the visitors can get to know more about these aspects.

One gallery which I found very interesting was the “Our neighbour’s gallery” which showcases the neighboring countries surrounding the North East of India – namely Nepal, Bhutan, China, Tibet, Myanmar & Bangladesh. 

The museum had a small theater where visitors could view an 8-minute video. A few members from our group missed the video. Seeing the video before starting the tour of the museum made sense to me, as we were getting a fair idea of what was in store.

Mac had planned for the voyagers to cover the museum in a systematic manner. Take a lift, go to the top, experience the 360-degree sky walk, see the video & start seeing the galleries one by one as you start descending the stairs. 

The museum had a small shop at which one could buy souvenirs and other local items such shawl/ tea/ turmeric powder, etc
Rutuja had “sanctioned” one hour for the museum visit, but for a person who is genuinely interested in such matters atleast 3 to 4 hours would be required.

After a satisfying hour at the museum, (which ended with many voyagers buying something from the shop) we had lunch at a local hotel & checked into Hotel Centre Point. Geetha & me, and I believe, some of the other voyagers got the same room which was allotted to us earlier when we first checked in to this hotel.

It was time to say good bye to Mac, our friend & local guide of the past 5 days. The voyagers had collected (and handed over) a purse, for Mac & the drivers.

After a relaxed evening, we had our dinner & retired to bed with the sound of a live band coming from the street across the hotel.

Having completed the Black Shrike, I started “Time of the Assassins” a novel by Alastair McNeill based on the outline of a story by Alistair MacLean.

 

Click here to continue...

Wednesday, 4 October 2023

 

 

Readers would remember my mentioning in the earlier chapter that 8 out of 21 voyagers opted to visit the double decker root bridge. And 2 out of the 8 included yours truly & Geetha. The other 6 being Beena, Dr Somappa, Chhaya, Acchar Guptaji & the brother sister duo of Shashikala & Mahendra.

Given the nature of the outing it was important for us to be physically and mentally ready for the double decker root bridge ‘trek’.

We had set the alarm for 4:00 AM. After getting up (without hitting the snooze button) we had a refreshing tea in the room, completed our morning chores & got ready by 5:30 AM. Packed sandwiches were ready. The bus that was to take us was ready with our guide for the day, a young fellow named Fredrick. We left by 5:45 AM. A short drive of around 4 kilometres brought us to the gateway “welcome to Tyrna Elaka Tourism”. Our walk was to begin from here.

We started by 6:00 AM & were probably the first trekkers to start for the day. Fredrick, though he was a youngster of around 20 years, seemed to be veteran. On enquiring he informed that he is studying in college and guides tourists like us to double decker bridge on part time basis. On an average he does this atleast once a week. He confirmed that not many trekkers start so early & that we were sure to complete this comfortably.

The stairs down to the bridge were of 3 different types. The first stage was a bit steep but broad & comfortable, in the second stage the stairs were approx. 6 inches in height but were quite narrow & the final stage was a combination of climbing up & then down again.

As it was quite early and since we had no other trekkers, we could hear the “sound of nature” as we walked. Birds and crickets chirping, sounds of waterfall from the distance, sound of leaves waving in the wind… This would be an experience I would remember for a long long time. Between the 8 of us & Fredrick, we ensured that at any point of time, no person would walk alone. It was always a group of 2 or more. 

Though it was chilly when we started, it gradually started becoming a bit humid, I was happy that I had 2 layers of tops & could easily remove the top jacket when it started getting a bit hotter. I was also happy for the trekking pole that I had brought along, though the locals were happy to lend a stout bamboo staff for a nominal fee. 

We crossed 3 bridges on our way & could see the double decker bridge by around 8:20 AM. By 8:30 AM Fredrick declared that the descent is over & we can now rest. At the end of the first part (we had to reverse and climb back the steps we had descended) I felt that this was more about mental strength than physical prowess.

After a sweltering hike, getting into the pool below the bridge and letting our feet into the cold water was a delightful experience. I heard Fredrick mentioning something about free fish spa to Geetha & I wanted to experience this. In one particular spot when you let your feet soak into the cold water, myriads of small cat fish start nipping away at your feet. It was weird initially, but you gradually get used to this within a couple of minutes. I was told that the dead skin in your body is eaten away. Fredrick arranged for piping hot tea, so having your feet soaked in cold water, tiny cat fish nipping away at your feet & a hot cup of tea in your hands was a most wonderful combination. We also devoured the packed sandwiches here.

 

After enjoying the water, and having several MBs of photos taken we reluctantly started our return journey by 10:15 AM. Half an hour into our return journey it started raining slightly, I felt it was quite refreshing to have this mild drizzle. Also it made us extra careful whilst climbing up which was a change from the monotony of having to climb climb & climb. One by one, we reached the top by 12:30 PM. After another round of tea, the group of eight boarded the bus & reached the hotel. A small token of our gratitude was handed over to Fredrick who gratefully accepted the same. I had a hot shower & reached the dining room for a quick lunch which was followed by a well-deserved rest with my e reader.

The organisers had arranged a live band for a relaxed evening. Voyagers joined the music and danced a bit. It was Shobhana’s birthday & Rutu had thoughtfully arranged for a birthday cake. We had cake cutting & the live band also rendered Happy Birthday song. In short it was a very happy evening. 

Shikha who had introduced herself as a classical musician on day one sang one song which was well appreciated by one & all.  After a sumptuous dinner I retired to bed with my e reader & completed Black Shrike.

 

Click here to continue

Tuesday, 3 October 2023

After a long and tiring but immensely enjoyable day yesterday, we got up early today morning & hit the breakfast table by 7:30 AM. Rutuja had instructed to keep our baggage duly packed and outside our room before heading to the breakfast table.

At 8:15 AM we checked out of the hotel. Our first halt was at Mawphlang Sacred Forest which we reached by 9:30 AM. Rutu informed that Mac would be joining us at the forest site directly. After gathering the voyagers, Mac gave a short introductory talk about the forest, the dos and don’ts. He explained the traditions, practices and other peculiarities. If I remember Mac’s talk correctly there are around 125 sacred forests in Meghalaya. These forests are important because they have some very old and special types of trees and plants which helps nature stay healthy. The climatic conditions of these forests support growth of rare plants which probably could not be found anywhere else in the earth.

Post Mac’s short talk, the voyagers took an hour-long stroll in the forest. It was a very serene feeling. Amongst the several species of trees and plants I can now remember only one name - Rudraksh tree – which holds religious significance to Hindus.

After experiencing absolute bliss & peace during the hour-long stroll in the sacred forest, the next destination was Orange Roots, where we stopped for lunch. 

After lunch we visited Nohkalikai waterfall. When we reached the site, we could see only fog & clouds, and hear a waterfall, but could not see the waterfall. The voyagers were disappointed. But Rutu informed that if we wait for some time the clouds may move and the waterfall will be visible. We waited patiently, but the wait was worth it. Gradually the clouds moved, the fog disappeared and a breathtaking scenery unfolded before our eyes. It is impossible to explain in mere words and capture in pictures the grandeur which nature provides. One should witness it to experience it! As per Wikipedia this is the tallest plunge waterfall in India & its height is 340 metres. Below the falls is a plunge pool with water of an unusual shade of green. 

 

No one was ready to leave the place, but we had a couple of more places to visit before checking into the resort at Cherrapunjee. After experiencing Nohkalikai waterfall we visited the Nohsngithiang waterfall (the Mawsmai Falls) which is supposed to be a seven segmented waterfall and also referred to as the seven sister’s waterfall. However, we did not spend much time here as there was not much water. We could however see the plains of Bangladesh beyond the hills. 

 

Rutu had also arranged for us to to visit Mawsmai caves which was next on our agenda for the day. After experiencing the vast open sky it was time to enter a cave where one may have to probably crawl to get through! At the entrance we met a couple of youngsters (for a group whose average age was 60 years a 30/ 32 year old would certainly qualify as an youngster) who saw the age profile of our group & ‘warned’ us that we would not be able to make it. They added that they started their journey into the cave & returned back after a couple of minutes as they were afraid to go ahead. But inspite of this ‘warning’ Rutu’s encouraging words ensured that 19 out of 21 members agreed for this mini adventure. The 2 who had decided not to join were having genuine issues which prevented them from participating in this little adventure.

The passage inside the caves were at places very narrow that one had to literally bend their body & squeeze between the rocks. The surface was rugged limestone. In most places, the interiors were dimly-lit. The voyagers experienced low overhangs & uneven footing in several places along the way. Given the age profile of the group members for some of us it took more time than what would have otherwise taken. But each & every one of those who had signed up for this adventure completed it successfully. A mini entertainment awaited every one when we completed the adventure. A live band was belting out popular Bollywood numbers and a mini dancing stage was available for those who wished to shake a leg (& their bodies). Few members took to this dancing stage. After a bite of a couple of chunks of tasty pine apple and a vigorous dancing session, the group left for the holiday resort in high spirits. We would be spending tonight & the next in Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort. 

 

After the mini adventure inside the Mawsmai caves another major adventure which could probably test one’s mental strength & physical stamina awaited. Voyagers who are interested had an option of visiting the double decker root bridge the next day. Now it was Rutu’s (who had encouraged all group members to participate in the Mawsmai cave) turn to warn potential participants about the nature of trip to the double decker root bridge. One has to start as early as possible, packed break fast would be provided, and the physical effort would involve getting down around 3500 steps cut in the mountain to reach the bridge. This was half the story. One has to climb up the 3500 steps to complete the trip. If it started raining it would queer the pitch further for the participants. 8 out of the 21 voyagers decided to take up this challenging task.

Rutuja had planned an alternative itinerary for those not visiting the double decker root bridge.

After an early dinner post reaching the resort, the voyagers retired to bed. I spent an hour with Black Shrike. At this rate I felt I should be able to complete this novel by tomorrow.

Click here to continue

Monday, 2 October 2023

 

 

The organizers of the Meghalaya tour had packed the first day of sightseeing with lot of activity.

The day begun with breakfast at 7:30 AM in the restaurant. Personally, my preference is (what is popularly referred to as) “Swaminarayan food”. But I had my doubts whether I would be getting this cuisine in this tour. Through out the tour I was on the look out for food items that would suit my requirement, and on several segments of the tour I was glad that I was able to get this.

At 8:00 AM the voyagers boarded the 2 vans to proceed towards the Nohwet Living Root bridge in Riwai river. A local guide Mac joined us. He was to be with us for a major part of our travel in Meghalaya. Mac had immense knowledge about the local customs, traditions, practices which proved invaluable to us to make the most of our trip.

The drive to Riwai village was through bumpy roads. But the scenic beauty that we got to see on the way made us temporarily forget the bad roads. When we reached a particularly beautiful location, the group took a small break for capturing the beauty in mobile cameras! 

 

On reaching our destination we had to climb down around 300 steps to reach the root bridge. A few members had brought trekking poles to navigate through the steps to reach the root bridge.

The Living Root Bridge is a type of simple suspension bridge formed by the method of tree shaping to form living plant roots across a stream or river. The roots are then allowed to grow and strengthen over time. These have been built over centuries by the locals of the land (khasis and jaintias) Meghalaya is said to have several such bridges, one of which we visited today. 

 

 

After viewing this marvel, we boarded the vans to travel to our next destination – Mawlynnong. Mawlynnong is a village in the East Khasi Hills district of the Meghalaya state in North East India. It is notable for its cleanliness and was chosen by Discover India magazine as Asia's cleanest village. This village is called God’s own Garden.

The community in Mawlynnong has been instrumental in maintaining the ambience of this litter-free village.The dwellers of the village take the onus of keeping the place clean, and activities like picking up leaves and throwing garbage in the bin is a very common sight. Bamboo garbage bins adorn every nook and corner of the village, highlighting the consciousness of cleanliness among the villagers. 

We had a leisurely stroll across the village admiring the cleanliness and the benefits that come with it. Beautiful colourful plants adorned the gardens in each of the house. Needless to say, this place too provided ample scope for selfies and photographs. Most group members made the most of this.

 

50plus organisers had arranged for lunch in one of the home stay restaurants. It was simple but nourishing food. Voyagers had option of vegetarian or non-vegetarian cuisine.

Rutuja introduced us to the owner of the place, a young lady who was the youngest daughter of the family & who had inherited the place from her mother. Mac explained that khasis are an ancient tribe & are considered the largest surviving matrilineal culture in the world. The youngest daughter inherits the ancestral property, and the husbands live with their mother-in-law after marriage! Most small businesses are managed by women.

After a simple lunch we boarded the bus for our next destination – Dawki. However, the bus ride was a long one. The distance as per google maps was around 31 kilometres. Enroute, we saw a wire fence which seemed to stretch almost as far as the eye could see. Rutuja mentioned it was the Bangladesh border. Here something weird happened to my mobile. The time in the mobile suddenly surged 30 minutes ahead & I got a message welcoming me to Bangladesh! My mobile service provider was offering international roaming connectivity & offered multiple plans! Our smart watch was showing the time 30 minutes behind what the mobile was showing.

 

 

Before reaching Dawki we managed to visit a waterfall on the way.

By the time we reached Dawki it was 4:45 PM. The plan was to have a boating session of around 45 minutes. Each boat to have 3 passengers. Geetha & myself teamed up with Sitaram and got into a boat. 

 

The Dawki River flows through Dawki, a little town located at the bottom of the Jaintia Hills. It is an unofficial boundary between India & Bangladesh. If one googles Dawki, one gets image & tons of write up about the crystal-clear water. Most images would show boats floating on the surface and the bottom of the water body visible very clearly. But this was not the case when we visited. Apparently, the rains had disturbed the waters & the transparency / translucency was not visible. But the boat ride by itself was immensely enjoyable. By the time our ride got over, the sky had darkened. The voyagers boarded the bus for a long ride back to Centre Point Hotel at Shillong. We reached the hotel by 10:00 PM and had a late dinner.

Next day morning we had to check out of Centre Point at Shillong and drive for Cherrapunji, the wettest place on earth.

Post dinner, I continued with The Black Shrike, but could not do much justice to the gripping story line due to the long day already spent traveling & the early getting up scheduled for the next day.

 Click here to continue..